Two hours north of Mexico City by car is one of Mexico's most cherished colonial jewels -the city of Quer Taro. The picturesque town is studded with charming and amazingly well-preserved baroque churches, temples and mansions boasting graceful balconies and ornate fa ades. Nestled among these architectural masterpieces are well-tended plazas featuring fountains or statues paying homage to famous local sons and, at least in one case, daughters. The city is also the capital of the state of Quer Taro, which encompasses numerous other attractions for the visitor, from archaeological sites to spa resorts.